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How to tear down a decocker gun

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eerw	How to tear down a decocker gun	Lead	[-]
Posts: 1321 (02/22/2008 16:11:20) CZF Donor Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Tags : None Does anyone have photos on how to tear down a decocker?? Curious on how to pull the decock lever out and how is spring is place in, in relation to the sear, sear spring and FPBL parts.. thanks..
superduty250		#1	[-]
Posts: 2 (02/22/2008 18:14:21) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	http://czechpistols82792.yuku.com/topic/16293/t/Performed-a-P01-sear-action-job.html There was a lot of info and pictures at this thread but now I can't get the picture links to show! The decocker lever is retained by the end of one of the springs fitting down in a slot in the decocker shaft the same as the safety lever in the non-decocker models. There are three springs to fly away and lose, especially the small one on the firing pin block lever. I am trying to build up enough courage to disassemble my 75BD this weekend to smooth the sear-hammer hook surfaces a little. There are lots of posts if you search for "trigger job". I will try to post pictures if I do mine this weekend.
superduty250	75BD decocker pics	#2	[-]
Posts: 6 (02/24/2008 17:54:40) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	It appears they have changed the design a little from what I seen in other posts. My 75BD was made in 2007. Even though the parts diagram shows a part #63 fixing disc, my gun does not have it. The 3mm sear pin is simply staked on the left end (under the decocking lever). The 3mm (.118 inch) pin is straight and the hole right side of frams is a little undersized to keep pin from going out that way. It must be driven out from right towards left after removing decocking lever. Hope the pictures turn out ok, this is my first attempt at posting pics. After working the sear and hammer hooks, I used a .110 slave pin .670 long made from #35 drill. This will just fit out right side hole when sear pin is pushed in from left side. Warning, this is what MY gun has. I know some BDs have a fixing disc holding the sear pin in and the right side hole is much smaller. Also, pictures of a 40P decocker look much different on left side of frame. Many, many thanks to all the guys who have posted sear and hammer reworking details. I spent about two hours on disassembly working the sear yesterday and about 4 hours today working the hammer and smoothing smoothing the DA parts using info from all the posts I have browsed over the last couple of weeks. Assembly is REALLY a bear. Believe all those who say it is hard. You really must take precautions or you will lose or break springs. I in NO WAY would recommend anyone attempt this without accepting that you may be unsuccessful and worse case end up taking to a real gunsmith for repair and replacing broken or lost parts. That being said..... I absolutely cannot believe how much better the SA trigger feels -- like BUTTER! DA is also much improved. I had already replaced the recoil spring with a Wolff 16# and the trigger spring with a Wolff 15# which had helped but it was still gritty after 1000 rounds and twice as many dry fires. I also had already polished the FPBL, FPB surface, trigger strut corners and trigger spring inside surface. I can't wait to do some test firing this Wednesday. Last Edited By: superduty250 02/24/2008 17:58:06. Edited 1 times.

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