This information was first offered by a forum member several years ago. More recently, another member resurrected the materials and I posted it for him.
We dont have the name of the original poster to thank. If anyone know who did this, let us know. If anyone sees ways of improving the procedures, let ME know that.
Recommended tools:
The CZ-75 Owners Manual
Dental pick
3/32 punch
Smooth workspace and floor with good lighting (helpful in finding lost springs.)
Step 1: Field strip the weapon, removing the slide from the frame.
Step 2: Locate the sear spring (part 12, in the manual) and, using the dental pick, gently pry the spring from its not in the safety (part 29).
This spring retains the safety. The safety holds the ejector/sear assembly in the gun.
Step 3: Fully cock the hammer.
Step 4: Hold the Ejector in place with your hand while working the safety on and off as you pull it out.
Note: there is a small, spring-loaded detent mechanism that can be lost, so watch for that small piece and spring as you remove the safety. These are the Safety Detent Plunger and Spring (parts 30 and 31). You have to push them BACK, out of the way, while removing the safety.
As you remove the safety, the ejector will be pushed forward by the hammer.
If the safety doesnt want to come out, theres a chance the sear spring has fallen back into its locking position. Check the spring.
Step 5: Remove the ejector.
Heres the ejector assembly removed from the gun.
Step 6: Use the punch to push out the sear pin (part 13), but leave the punch in position.
Before removing the punch from the ejector, close your hand around the assembly to prevent the springs from flying loose when you remove the punch.
Once youve removed the punch, dump the parts out to be sure they are all there. Heres a picture of the various parts.
Ejector (part #10)
Sear (#11)
Sear spring (#12)
Sear pin (#13)
Firing pin block lever (#14)
Firing pin block lever spring (#15)
Find any missing parts before you continue!
Note: If you cant find the firing pin block lever spring, you can make one yourself from the spring wire of a ballpoint pen but its not quite as good as the factory part. (Call CZ-USA for the part.)
Step 7: Remove the Safety Detent Plunger and Spring (parts 30 and 31) These are easy to lose, so be careful. (Youll have to push them back and to the inside of the frame when removing them, so be careful.)
Step 8: Remove the Hammer Pin Retaining Peg (part 19). You may be able to do this with your finger on the outside of the frame. If not, you can push it out with a pick.
Step 9: Remove the Hammer Pin (part 1
. The Hammer Pin can only come out from the right side of the frame to the left.
We havent removed the mainspring, so this is still under tension. To make this easier, push DOWN on the hammer while removing the pin.
The hammer will now swing clear of the frame, and you can access the hammer hooks.
Step 10: Polishing!
You want to smooth the sear, Ejector and Trigger Bar (part 7) on all surfaces that rub against metal.
A mirror finish is not needed, but is OK. You certainly want to remove any machining marks.
Warning: taking off too much means youve got to buy a new part!
Polish the areas marked in red.
We dont have the name of the original poster to thank. If anyone know who did this, let us know. If anyone sees ways of improving the procedures, let ME know that.
Recommended tools:
The CZ-75 Owners Manual
Dental pick
3/32 punch
Smooth workspace and floor with good lighting (helpful in finding lost springs.)
Step 1: Field strip the weapon, removing the slide from the frame.
Step 2: Locate the sear spring (part 12, in the manual) and, using the dental pick, gently pry the spring from its not in the safety (part 29).
This spring retains the safety. The safety holds the ejector/sear assembly in the gun.
Step 3: Fully cock the hammer.
Step 4: Hold the Ejector in place with your hand while working the safety on and off as you pull it out.
Note: there is a small, spring-loaded detent mechanism that can be lost, so watch for that small piece and spring as you remove the safety. These are the Safety Detent Plunger and Spring (parts 30 and 31). You have to push them BACK, out of the way, while removing the safety.
As you remove the safety, the ejector will be pushed forward by the hammer.
If the safety doesnt want to come out, theres a chance the sear spring has fallen back into its locking position. Check the spring.
Step 5: Remove the ejector.
Heres the ejector assembly removed from the gun.
Step 6: Use the punch to push out the sear pin (part 13), but leave the punch in position.
Before removing the punch from the ejector, close your hand around the assembly to prevent the springs from flying loose when you remove the punch.
Once youve removed the punch, dump the parts out to be sure they are all there. Heres a picture of the various parts.
Ejector (part #10)
Sear (#11)
Sear spring (#12)
Sear pin (#13)
Firing pin block lever (#14)
Firing pin block lever spring (#15)
Find any missing parts before you continue!
Note: If you cant find the firing pin block lever spring, you can make one yourself from the spring wire of a ballpoint pen but its not quite as good as the factory part. (Call CZ-USA for the part.)
Step 7: Remove the Safety Detent Plunger and Spring (parts 30 and 31) These are easy to lose, so be careful. (Youll have to push them back and to the inside of the frame when removing them, so be careful.)
Step 8: Remove the Hammer Pin Retaining Peg (part 19). You may be able to do this with your finger on the outside of the frame. If not, you can push it out with a pick.
Step 9: Remove the Hammer Pin (part 1
. The Hammer Pin can only come out from the right side of the frame to the left. We havent removed the mainspring, so this is still under tension. To make this easier, push DOWN on the hammer while removing the pin.
The hammer will now swing clear of the frame, and you can access the hammer hooks.
Step 10: Polishing!
You want to smooth the sear, Ejector and Trigger Bar (part 7) on all surfaces that rub against metal.
A mirror finish is not needed, but is OK. You certainly want to remove any machining marks.
Warning: taking off too much means youve got to buy a new part!
Polish the areas marked in red.
